Attic, Insulation & Ice Dams

Attic Insulation in Toronto & the GTA

Half the housing stock in the GTA sits under R12 to R20 of tired insulation β€” a fraction of what current code expects of a new build. You feel it as cold bedrooms over the garage, a furnace that never rests in February, and a row of icicles that returns every winter. Of all the heat-loss fixes a house has, the attic is usually the cheapest per degree of comfort gained.

The order of operations matters more than the fluff. Attic air sealing comes first β€” top plates, plumbing chases, pot lights, the hatch β€” because warm air leaking upward carries more heat than conduction ever will. That same escaping heat is what melts roof snow from below and builds ice dams at the cold eaves. Then baffles go in at the soffits so the intake stays open, and blown-in insulation tops the attic up to R60.

We quote what your attic needs, not a one-size blow-in. Dry, clean existing insulation stays put and gets topped up; wet, mouldy or rodent-fouled material comes out first. And we'll be straight about the half-job problem: loose fill insulation dumped over unsealed air leaks looks great on an invoice and underperforms in a house.

What this covers

  • Air sealing of top plates, wiring and plumbing penetrations, pot light covers and the hatch β€” before any insulation goes in
  • Baffles stapled into every eave bay so the soffit intake stays open
  • Blown-in loose fill insulation (cellulose or fibreglass) topped up to R60
  • Depth markers through the attic so the finished level is verifiable, not guessed
  • An insulated, weatherstripped attic hatch β€” often the biggest single hole in the ceiling
  • Removal of wet, compressed or contaminated old insulation where needed
  • Proper clearance dams around chimneys, flues and heat-producing fixtures
  • A check that every exhaust fan ducts outdoors, not into your fresh insulation

Just need one small job done?

What affects the price

  • Attic footprint and how much depth you're starting with β€” an attic insulation top up is a different job than a strip-out
  • Air sealing scope: a ceiling full of pot lights takes real time to seal safely
  • Whether old material has to be removed and bagged out first
  • Access β€” hatch size and location decide how the hose gets in
  • Roof pitch at the eaves; tight low heels make baffling slow, careful work
  • Obstacles like attic HVAC equipment, storage decking, or knob-and-tube wiring that must be dealt with before blowing

Every home is different, so we don’t publish flat prices β€” the quote is free and based on your actual job.

Common questions

What R-value should an attic have in Ontario?
R60 is the benchmark the Ontario Building Code sets for new houses, and it's the sensible target for a top-up too. Many GTA homes from the 60s through the 90s measure R12 to R32. Below about R40, topping up pays for itself in heating and cooling; above R50, the returns per added centimetre get thin.
Will more insulation stop my ice dams?
It's the core of the fix, but not alone. Ice dams form when warm attic air melts the snowpack from underneath; the meltwater slides to the cold eaves, refreezes into a dam, and backs water up under the shingles. Insulation slows the heat, air sealing stops the leaks that bypass insulation entirely, and ventilation keeps the deck cold. Do all three and the dams stop forming.
Can you blow new insulation over the old?
Yes, as long as the existing material is dry, clean and not compressed into mats. Topping up over sound insulation is normal practice and keeps the cost down. What we won't do is bury problems β€” wet spots, mould, vermiculite, or rodent damage need dealing with first, because insulation hides whatever it covers for the next twenty years.
Cellulose or fibreglass β€” which is better?
At proper depth, both perform. Blown cellulose is denser and better at slowing air movement; blown fibreglass is lighter, doesn't settle as much, and shrugs off moisture incidents better. In practice the installation quality β€” sealing first, full depth everywhere, baffles at the eaves β€” moves the result far more than the choice of material does.
Is there a wrong time of year to insulate an attic?
Not really. Winter work is fine and you feel the difference the same week; summer attics hit brutal temperatures by noon, so crews start early. If ice dams are your reason for calling, aim to have sealing and insulation done before the snow flies β€” fall books up fast for exactly that reason.

Ready to sort out your attic insulation?

Tell us what your home needs β€” a small fix or a full project β€” and get a free quote.